Ten Minutes with Courtney & Christina of White Owl

Lace can be many things: sweet, girly, naughty, and—surprisingly—sculptural. Well, at least it is in the hands of sisters Courtney & Christina Spivak who sell jewelry made from reclaimed lace, chain, and tulle under the White Owl by Spivak and Spivak brand. Take a look at the Clementine earrings, which echo the notched fluting of gingko leaves, or the Rennes necklace, two paisley-ish lace fragments strung on a cascade of coppery chain. The collection is the perfect balance of substance with lightness, and each piece will work just as well framing a tanned clavicle, or adding just enough “girl”  to that perfect tank you keep borrowing from your boyfriend.  Here’s more from Courtney & Christina . . .

Oligoville: Fill in the blanks: In five words or less, White Owl is . . .

Courtney & Christina: . . .  reclaimed, vintage, tulle, chain, lace

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Courtney & Christina: Our ideal customer is someone who enjoys our product! We try to make everyone’s experience as good as possible, so hopefully everyone becomes our ideal customer!

Oligoville: How’d you end up as designers?

Courtney & Christina: We’ve both made jewelry for ourselves on and off over the years, but only started selling online last year.

Oligoville: How/when did you launch your brand?

Courtney & Christina: We started in craft shows a couple of years ago and started our Etsy shop in 2008, but we didn’t really get the Etsy shop going until April 2009.

Oligoville: Why lace?

Courtney & Christina: We work with different materials that we find inspiring, but the intricate patterns of lace are always intriguing to us.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Courtney & Christina: Thrift shops, street fashion, old movies—everything really.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in each of your lives?

Courtney: Wake up, work (I teach at a local college), come home, grab a drink with friends, and make jewelry!

Christina: Answer emails, process orders, go the post office, then swing by the thrift shop or flea market, then maybe some time with friends and back to making jewelry.

Oligoville: What’s in your closets? What are you wearing right now?

Courtney: Tulle ! For Spring 2010 I have bought tons of tulle skirts and tulle embellished tops! I have also been using tons of tulle in the new necklaces I have been making.

Christina: Lots of neutrals, and of course lace!

Oligoville: What’s in your bags right now?

Courtney: Makeup, money, my new Droid cellphone, granola bar (for snack emergencies!)

Christina: Pretty much everything but the kitchen sink!

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Courtney & Christina: It’s hard to keep a balance between work and play when you run your own business, but time off is important. We try to enjoy our time off so we can be inspired and still excited about what we do.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your careers?

Courtney & Christina: Making things! Being creative is its own reward.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Courtney & Christina: Work, work, work! Having your own business means lots of work.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlists right now?

Courtney & Christina: David Bowie, MGMT, Deerhoof, France Gall

Oligoville: Any last words?

Courtney & Christina: Au revoir?

Ten Minutes with Edna and Cindy of The Hemma Collection

Let’s face it—it’s hard to keep traditionally-infused looks from feeling costumey. I mean an obi’s still an obi whether you’re styling an antique kimono or an off-the-runway  tunic, right? Thank goodness no one told  that to Edna Bissoon and Cindy Gaston of The Hemma Collection. Not that it would have mattered because the designing duo has done the seemingly impossible—created an utterly wearable, drop dead sexy, of-the-moment collection that perfectly balances bodycon silhouettes with kente‘s exuberant patterning. (And did I mention that there’s also a healthy dose of philanthrophy thrown in?) But why don’t I let Edna and Cindy tell you more about it?

Oligoville: In five words or less, The Hemma Collection is. . .

Edna & Cindy:  . . .  a stunning collection embodying edgy sophistication.

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Edna & Cindy: Hemma’s ideal customers are women craving chic, innovative, timeless garments that can be integrated into their current wardrobe. The Hemma woman looks beyond function when selecting clothes and loves to make a statement—what kind of statement is up to the client. Every style in the collection has strikingly detailed kente with each color and pattern having its own meaning deeply rooted in the royal tradition of Ghana. We have pieces offered both in rich and monotone colors catering to women with a rich color palette or those wanting a more subtle look. Our immaculately tailored suits, cocktail dresses, and separates focus on detail down to the creamy silk lining and the silhouettes designed to accentuate a woman’s curves and make each client feel like royalty. With proceeds going toward the school where we taught, Hemma’s ideal customer appreciates fashion with a cause.

Oligoville: How’d you end up as designers?

Edna: I’ve been interested in fashion since I could remember, and it all started with my mom. She is an artist in her own right and not only did she do all of our interior decorating but made some of my clothes and Halloween costumes. Art has always been in my blood and, from a young age, I participated in art programs and learned how to sew. I took classes at [the Fashion Institute of Technology], modeled at dozens of fashion shows, and independently designed for four years.

Cindy: I’ve drawn to designing my own pieces since the swing lesson in my eighth grade home economics class in middle school. Afterward, I grabbed my mother’s sewing machine and have been designing my own garments ever since then! I studied the history of kente at New York University in Ghana and even wove kente myself, designed several products for HBO’s original series Flight of the Conchords, and independently designed for approximately five years.

Edna & Cindy: Since we both come from a fashion design background, creating garments came about immediately and naturally when we arrived in Ghana. Initially, we were not aiming to create a lifestyle brand, but rather pieces for ourselves. We learned about kente’s rich history and became accustomed to the fabric through art history classes offered in Ghana, excursions around the country, and the students we taught while volunteering at La Yahoushua Junior Secondary School.

When wearing our designs in New York City, we received such wide acclaim that we moved to introduce our garments to the general public. Many people we encountered did not know about Kente and were immediately attracted to the styles and the intricately detailed fabric. Hemma began from the desire to introduce to the world a gem of a textile and our desire to offer luxe immaculately tailored garments that accentuates a woman’s curves to make every client feel like royalty.

Oligoville: Why kente?

Edna & Cindy: Going to Bonwire, the main town where Kente is woven in Ghana, and seeing the skilled artisans creating such intricate patterns all by eye inspired us. Kente is not only Hemma’s fabric of choice but it’s a piece of art to be admired. There is an unimaginable amount of creative energy, determination, and history woven into Kente that was apparent to us as soon as we saw and learned about it. Kente is alive and tells a long beautiful story of the past while pointing to valuable insights to be incorporated into the future.

All of the Kente used by Hemma is authentically created with the same techniques established centuries ago, including the weaving still done on handmade wooden looms. The Kente weaving system is an astonishing process as all lines, shapes, and pattens are so perfectly formed by the technician without measuring tools. What is special about these craftsmen is that they inherit the right, as only a particular group of families in Ghana master and pass down this complex skill. Kente is not only one of the most exceptional fabrics in Africa but also the world.

The fabric is so intricate that it takes approximately 1-2 months to weave enough fabric for a size zero suit in the collection. Kente also boasts a 100% eco-friendly reputation as it uses natural dyes, no machinery or factories in its production, and is made from virgin cotton. Hemma strives to bring Kente to the public and make all of our clients feel just as luxurious.

Oligoville: Please talk about the philanthropic aspect of your company.

Edna & Cindy: The Hemma Foundation is our way of giving back to the people and culture that inspired Hemma’s very creation. We both volunteered as teachers and photography club advisors at La Yahoushua Junior Secondary School in Accra, Ghana. We witnessed the economic hardships faced by young children in Ghana, many of whom work long hours to assist their families. In Ghana, West Africa an estimated 40% of all elementary aged children lack the resources to attend school. The enrollment rates drop even further for secondary aged children, as an alarming 60% of them are unable to afford a basic education. Numerous primary and secondary schools also lack basic resources such as bathrooms and up-to-date learning materials.

To address this issue, we created The Hemma Foundation, a not-for-profit organization that affords educational opportunities for economically disadvantaged primary and secondary school students in Ghana by providing academic scholarships. The foundation also aims to improve the quality of education by granting financial assistance to under-funded primary and secondary schools. By donating funds for learning materials and after school programs, The Hemma Foundation strives to improve the quality of education received by Ghana’s youth. The Hemma Foundation allows the public to directly donate to under-funded schools in Ghana, beginning with La Yahoushua, the middle school where we taught classes. We will continue to guide the foundation’s growth and support its efforts by way of an ongoing investment of five percent of Hemma’s annual sales.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Edna & Cindy: We draw our inspiration from many places including Diane von Furstenberg and Chanel. DVF’s wrap dresses in particular flatter a women’s shape and have appealed to women since the 1970s. Chanel creates tailored suits that can be collected and worn throughout seasons. As with these brands, we envision Hemma’s garments will withstand seasons and trends. Similarly, our collection flatters and accentuates a woman’s silhouette, allowing women to feel confident about their bodies. The sleek silhouettes and chic designs can be worn from day to night and integrated easily into a woman’s wardrobe. By maintaining the same weaving techniques used to dress the royal class for centuries, Hemma offers one-of-a-kind pieces that allow each client to exude royalty.

We were both inspired by the students we taught while living in Ghana. By spending time with our students while instructing classes and advising the after-school Photography Club, we learned a great deal about the culture and fell in love with Ghana. We were so inspired that we began The  Hemma Foundation to continue assisting the educational system in Ghana while designing for Hemma.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in your lives?

Edna & Cindy: Early morning conference call with our operations team in Ghana, answering emails in the morning, heading to the factory to manage production or visiting the boutiques where we are carried to plan trunk shows/manage new orders/ensure client satisfaction. We also hold Hemma meetings in the evening to prep for upcoming events and coordinate marketing, attend NYC fashion or art related events to take in the rich art culture that NYC has to offer.

Oligoville: What’s in your closets? What are you wearing right now?

Edna : Hemma Gold Coast corset in blue and white, Rag and Bone slacks, and oxford shoes.

Cindy – A Walter dress, Hemma Asante Jacket in black, and DVF heels.

Oligoville: What’s in your bags right now?

Edna: My laptop, the Hemma catalog, my iPhone, Lucky magazine’s May issue that highlights The Hemma Foundation, a planner, and Biosilk’s Silk Therapy.

Cindy: My blackberry, Essence magazine’s April Issue that features Hemma in the editorial spread and our “Stylist Notebook” article, a bottle of Vitamin E oil, a planner, and a pair of flats.

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Edna & Cindy: One of the biggest obstacles we had to overcome when launching Hemma was finding proper investment. Finding the right relationship is crucial when building a brand and maintaining the vision intended for the company. Proper research, a strong business plan, and a well-ironed vision is also needed when securing investment. Thus far each step of the way has progressed smoothly due to the strong management behind the company and simply because of the undeniable beauty, quality, and appeal of Hemma.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your careers?

Edna & Cindy: Being able to pursue our passion while giving back to our students in West Africa.

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Edna & Cindy: Hemma’s future is very bright. This is just our first collection, and our future collections will continue to evolve and improve. Characteristics of Hemma that will remain constant are the luxe quality of fabric and construction, beauty in pattern and color, and a fit that will make women feel confident about their curves. In the next five years we would like to be in boutiques across the country and around the world, as well as have expanded to our men’s collection. We also envision having a flagship store in that time.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Edna & Cindy: Our greatest advice is to be passionate about what you do and then have the discipline and work ethic to follow through! Having your own company is a lot of work but also endlessly rewarding. Also, there is way more preparation involved in every step of the way than you first imagine, and it’s true what they say preparation is everything.  Do as much research as humanly possible on anything that you want to get into because to succeed you have to be an expert on your business. Finally, it’s critical that you always stay optimistic and hopeful.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlists right now?

Edna: Drake, Sade, Robin Thicke

Cindy: MGMT, Birdman, Adele, Kate Nash

Oligoville: Any last words?

Edna & Cindy: We at Hemma focus on quality, detail and fit and make only very small quantities to ensure a unique piece that exudes luxury. Our 2010 collection is a limited edition and there will only be 300 total garments created with the specific colors, patterns and styles offered. We also create custom garments upon request. We give our clients the option of choosing any kente present in the current collection for the style in the collection of their choice to create their own custom Hemma garment.

Ten Minutes with Caycee Black

Already a Lucky magazine favorite, Caycee Black has turned her passion for painting, ballet, and old movies into a luxe line that works as well in the boardroom as it does center stage. The collection—a tour-de-force of sophisticated whimsy —features dramatic but elegant prints and striking but never heavy-handed details such as flounced hemlines and draped necklines. Keep reading to learn more about Caycee’s conversion from canvas to couture.

Oligoville: In five words or less, Caycee Black  is. . .

Caycee: The mix of the three loves of my life: art, film, and ballet.

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Caycee: My ideal customer is an individual who sees my pieces and knows just how she wants to add them to her wardrobe.  I love that so many different types of women have been attracted to the same pieces.  They see it in their own way and know just how they want it to look on them.  My pieces are worn on stage by rock musicians and by women that work in offices.

Oligoville: How’d you end up as a designer?

Caycee: I grew up always painting and in and out of art classes during my summers and anytime I could fit them in.  I also had a weird obsession for old films when I was very young, mainly for how the women transformed themselves in each scene by what they had on.  I also remember my mom letting me dress myself as a child, which turned out quite interesting. I still remember the details of those outfits.  My favorite outfit was pink pegged-leg suspender pants with a purple puff sleeve leotard and a teal beaded necklace with purse to match!  In high school I was working on my art portfolio. When Parsons [the New School for Design] came to talk to my art class, I had this moment where I realized it was what I had always wanted to do.  Now my paintings become prints that come to life when worn.

Oligoville: What fashion trend do you hope we’ve seen the last of in 2010?

Caycee: I hope we have seen the last of the harem pant. I feel like a few designers started showing them, and then every designer, no matter who their customer was. started adding them to their repertoire.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Caycee: I can be inspired by so many different aspects.  For prints it can be a shadow in the park or something that has spilled on a window.  For mood I am always watching old films so I usually become engrossed by a character or film’s story line.  For Fall 09 it was the Thin Man series in which I fell in love with Myrna Loy.  Her character was so witty and equal to her husband for the time period of the late 30′s.  For Spring 2010 it was Agnes Varda’s film the dark fairy tale Le Bonheur.  The juxtaposition between the happy palette and the dark storyline intrigued me. It led me to my palette for spring 2010 and to playing with unexpected detailing such as cut-outs and asymmetry.  For Fall 2010 it is a mix of Murder on the Orient Express and the idea of a garden at night …. dreamlike.

Oligoville: Sadly, we just lost Alexander McQueen who was just so marvelously inventive. What do you think his lasting impact on fashion will be?

Caycee: Wow,  this is a question. I just hope that the hype around his death will die down, and people will remember what he did and who he was more than how and when he died.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in your life?

Caycee: Usually waking up much earlier than I would like as I am a night person.  Running to my factory, which is in midtown and going over things.  Then I am usually running around midtown grabbing buttons and fabric or meeting with a vendor.  I then come home and answer a lot of emails. After I take care of my day-to-day tasks I allow myself to start working on the design aspect of  the next collection, shoot, or film ideas.  Creating is why I do this.

Oligoville: What’s in your closet? What are you wearing right now?

Caycee: My closet is a mix of pieces I have designed and vintage.  Right now I am wearing my denim knit bodysuit from the spring 10 line with a vintage 80′s high-waisted pale denim skirt and black perforated, patent, strappy shoes. Oh, and hot pink lip gloss!

Oligoville: What’s in your bag right now?

Caycee: A Bazaar magazine, colored pencils, a sketch book, tons of pencils and markers, a camera, and my I-phone.  I can’t leave home without a sketchbook or camera. You never know when you feel the need.

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Caycee:  Well, I decided to launch my collection right when the economy was going through its toughest time.  Stores in general were very wary of working with a new designer.  I think this has been to my benefit since I focus on pursuing the right stores for my collection and not a general grouping.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your career?

Caycee: When I am wearing a piece of my collection and someone comes up to me asking where it is from.

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Caycee: I would love to have my collection in stores that support me and really understand the message of my line.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Caycee: Be very careful with doing anything with friends. If you do, make sure you meet with a lawyer and draw up paperwork before you start anything.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlist right now?

Caycee: Cocteau Twins, Petshop Boys, Pale Saints, Chris and Cosey, Chairlift, ZAZA, The Depreciation Guild (my boyfriend’s band), and The Pains of Being Pure at Heart (also my boyfriend’s band he plays drums in)

Oligoville: Any last words?

Caycee: I am going to see some Koala Bears right now!  Maybe I will get to hold one!

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