FASHION BY THE RULES – Gucci Pucci Coo

Well if this is any indication of what’s to come, PETA is going to be very busy this coming fall season. The latest from Ms. Giannini (GUCCI) is luxe without being dreadfully over the top and also a bit of a nod to the eternally fashionable YSL. That is to say, yes it is over the top but in a more sedate way rather than the usual bells and whistles that accompany a Gucci collection.

The keys are color, fur, leather, wearable and all with a polish and swagger that has been missing for a long time. The collection has a 40’s type of Hepburn glamor with the fuller pants, defined waists, jabot blouses, and the softer filmy evening wear. Even the shoes and handbags have been tamed, no major platforms or major stilettos nor any outrageously ridiculous bags. Don’t get me wrong, they are there just not front-and-center as in the past, after all, accessories are the bread and butter of the brand.

I really do like that so many of the daytime looks are finished off with a fedora, which also adds to that soigne city sophisticate look, as well as possibly a nod to Frida’s favorite decade (the 70’s). As I said, there is plenty of fur, whether it is collars or cuffs, detail or coat, and this part has not been tamed as the fur shows up in a kaleidoscope of colors, which only drives home that color statement more emphatically.

If one waits, one will see things happen that they never expected. Peter Dundas has now taken the style he created for the house and brand and really transformed it into a 21st century vision of Pucci. He has done this carefully and he has done it successfully with this season’s presentation.

With his rock star and over-the-top sexy take on an age old prestige brand, he has not brought back the prints which the house is famous for since its inception. Mr. Dundas has previously flirted with the prints but has not given them a starring role until now. The clothes are modern, sexy, and without question, bear the stamp of Peter Dundas. If nothing else, he has restored my faith that not all designers are solely interested in reviving a brand by defying all that the brand stood for and ignoring it. BRAVO to Peter Dundas and here’s to hoping some others will follow his lead.

Fashion By the Rules: MILAN SPRING 2010

In a season, marked by designers not having a clear direction, Milan showed sparks of fabulous by designers doing what they do best. Few forged ahead so as not to tarnish their reputations and yet a few took a look at what they do best and indeed sometimes you just have to play the strong suit.

I nicknamed the VERSACE collection “What would Gianni do” and indeed Donatella came up with the answer.  She stuck to what she does best; sexy, flashy and  nearly over the top clothes. This proved to be the best route to follow. Studded leathers, bold prints, short tight sexy dresses and all with a fabulous 21 st century twist .

BLUMARINE provides with the evolution of a collection, which went from last fall’s extravaganza of leopard and sexy to this seasons spectacle of camouflage, tie dye and still more leopard. The collection is for those who know how to live life and prefer to live it for everyone to see. The clothes were never too young and never too jeweled, always easy shapes for Spring.

PUCCI was a stand out to me for different reasons. Here is an old school, well known , well respected brand where its DNA has all but been obliterated and replaced with , what I can only call “Euro Trash Sexy”. I find it hard to believe that the market requires more of this look when it already dubbed GIVENCHY, the king of this look via the same abandonment. It is sad to see the heritage of these houses discarded when the original designers spent decades building them into powerhouses during the 20^th century. When Lacroix did PUCCI, I believe he got it right. He morphed it into the 21 st century  and didn’t discard its DNA. See for yourself.

As always you can see the full collections on www.style.com and I thank them for the photographs.

I invite you to read my full coverage of the collections  here .

Trend Report: Spring ’09 Accessory Report #3

Spring 2009 will be a hue- lovers paradise. Bright palettes will dominate and revitalize all fashion categories especially our beloved accessories. This is not a time to be tame nor shy but instead it is an opportunity to make bold statements with our fashion choices.

Think multi-colored clutches, bright rhinestone jewels, intensely colored leather shoes and vibrant prints on everything. Now this is a trend that translates effortlessly from the runways of Paris to your closet.

Be sure to check out our first two in our series of Spring 2009 accessory reports.

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