FASHION BY THE RULES: NY Fashion Week, The Good, the Bad, The Ugly

VICTORIA BECKHAM returns for Spring 2011 with a looser, but shapely and still sexy silhouette. There is no mistaking the feminine body conscious shapes that have become her trademark. She has shown us that she is quite capable of producing very alluring and salable collections while sticking to her original design philosophy.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER is well known for red carpet confections and bridal gowns, this season she revs it up for those camera ready moments. From cocktails to drop dead evening extravagance, Ms. Lhuillier has kept the bar high for any occasion after 5 PM.

RALPH LAUREN consistently delivers incredible collections season after season and is forever mining the archives and refining his designs until they are perfection. The urbane couture cowgirl for Spring is no exception. In pristine whites, beiges browns and silver think of prairie skirts, suedes, cottons, concha belts, whip stitching, cavalry shirts, ruffles, lace, Navajo patterns and then just throw in some bugle beads and silver lame and you have all the ingredients of the collection. There is no stone unturned and not one element missed. He cannot be praised enough for salable, chic, endlessly appealing collections.

OSCAR de la RENTA remains the favorite for socials, starlets and the perennial best dressed ladies of the world. The pinks, the neutrals, the crispness of black and white and a few nods to Chanel will keep Mr. de la Renta enthroned for a while longer. He certainly has accentuated the waist and maybe even brought a bit of retro to the collection but nothing gets in the way of his exquisite gowns and those Latin influenced ruffle numbers.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ might need to examine this collection and ask why. His usual structural and architectural looks were replaced by a bunch of disappointingly soft and slouchy looks. Yes, it is Spring and no one wants to be harnessed in to some tight ass constructed garment but there has to be some common ground between what he presented and what was his usual fare.

REED KARKOFF is insistent on being a designer entity unto himself despite his success with Coach. In his namesake collection, which is in its second season, the DNA has not yet been fully developed and that’s where the issues begin. One can assume that the collection will remain on its minimalist path but when Mr. Krakoff veers off that path, then we see trouble. Again we see the folds and the origami work of so many collections but here we see it become clumsy. Even his use of red jolts us as with his black: they become odious under his hand.

STEPHEN BURROWS has presented Spring 2011 in a very relaxed, if not amateurish setting and seems to have lost his way. This is the man who was king of sexy matte jersey and the King of Henri Bendel when Geraldine Stutz ruled the roost. He would be far wiser and certainly better received if he would only dig into the archives, as so many have done and continue to do, and give it a fresh twist. So much more is expected from a designer of this caliber.

Don’t forget to check in with www.style.com for full photo coverage of all the collections and you can always find me on Facebook  as well as http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com/  and now at http://www.examiner.com/user/2062506/2038116/articles  so please subscribe.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

RALPH LAUREN

OSCAR de la RENTA

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

STEPHEN BURROWS

REED KRAKOFF

Fashion By The Rules 9/22

For the premiere of Fashion By the Rules, I would like to invite you to my overview of the New York Spring Collections for 2010.

The New York  trends for the season, which I know seems very far away, are not set in stone so use them as a guideline to make your personal statement  for Spring 2010.

As Kay Thompson said —“Think Pink”….but think blush pink on its own or mixed with white or black or beige……then think prints…..bold prints and not those little ditsy florals …polka dots and or spectator looks of color with white………these are Spring staples and you cannot go wrong even if you stick to the basics.

Next up is the waist ……….it has made a come back for Fall 2009 and continues to Spring 2010.  Your choice is to cinch it or suggest it….belts have made their comeback  and so have shaped dresses or pant or skirt with blouse or tee but tucked into the bottom of choice. Dresses range from shirtwaists to shifts to serpentine seamed sheaths that define every curve….your choice !

Travelling south , we get to everyone’s favorite …shoes!!  My feeling is that while many designers showed platformed heels(sandal or pump), I personally feel that a less “heavy” looking shoes is more correct so that you are not weighed down ….I am a big fan of regular sandals(not the gladiator variety) whether they are flat, mid heel, or stiletto as they all have a look but try to keep the color of the shoe on the light side, even if its metallic……of course black is acceptable but always be aware that a heavy closed up pump or worse yet “booty” can kill a stellar outfit.

Always remember that these shows are geared towards press and present an overall mood of each collection…they are in no way meant to be carried out to the letter.  You should take the time to review several of the shows on style.com—-it’s always educational to see each designer’s unique vision.  My favorites are Chado by Ralph Rucci , Oscar de la Renta. Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs who is proof that the vision and the reality are 2 different things—–all photos courtesy of www.style.com

Resort Report

It’s that time again, this week’s trend report is the official Oligoville Resort Report. With dozens of amazing designers presenting dazzling accessories, handbags and threads we had to pick a few of our faves to share with you.

While neutrals are present in many Resort collections, I must respectfully look the other way. Nothing against the hues, but as you ladies know, I’m just not a neutral kind of girl.

This resort reprt is all about color and  here are some of my top selections from the trends this year.

Best of Resort #1: Candy Colors

Sonia Rykiel shorts (Mimosa, anyone?)

Prada Clutch:

Ralph Lauren Collection dress:

Best of Resort #2: Turquoise

Oscar de la Renta:

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Chanel (of course) and a Frette towel:

Roberto Cavalli Ring:

Best of Resort #3: Navy and Gold

French Connection top:

Miu Miu Sunglasses:

Proenza Schouler sandal (so hot):

So those are some of my top pieces, but what about complete collections?

A savvy fashionista from NY divulges her top designers, which I must respect and agree with her insider opinion: “[My] three favorite collections shown at New York during Resort 2009 fashion week dazzled me with their lovely, feminine sophistication note. First of all I love their chromatic palettes: white and off-white, grey, rose, crimson red, midnight blue, navy and black and the subtle refinement of the delicate details: ruffles, draping and other embellishments. These are clothes to keep in your wardrobe forever and not just for one holiday.

Carolina Herrera, recently granted with Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award at CFDA, brought out an impeccable chic collection, as always, though with a cheerful, breezy note, perfect for resort: orchid print, wide-leg fluid trousers, sheath dresses with delicate frills, long gowns with bold prints…simply stunning.

Carolina Herrera Resort 2009

Donna Karan showed a romantic resort collection that included delicate pieces in soft makeup colors – blushes, pinks and nudes – emphasized by deep black. Soft fabrics and different textures are cut into gently bubbled silhouettes. Draping or feminine embellishments such as bows add a lot of chic appeal while those breathtaking one-shouldered draped gowns in jersey and silk make you wish a never-ending holiday.

Donna Karan Resort 2009

Zac Posen‘s resort collection is just as lovely and chic and, most of all, very wide-range reaching all sort of sartorial needs that might occur during vacation time. Cocktail dresses with floral prints for outdoor parties, crisp tennis whites for smart looks, loose garments for strolls on a beach and even short dance frocks or Grecian evening gowns.”

Zac Posen Resort 2009

While I won’t be sporting these looks at the lake on this holiday, maybe some of you will at more glamorous locations. These Resort picks are styles that will keep you on the edge of fashion whether you are in the Hamptons, on the beach or staying haute in the City.

XOXO

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