FASHION BY THE RULES : McQUEEN, HERMES, CHANEL…Le Fin

There can be nothing worse than knowing that what you put forth will be the moment that everyone judges your work. Sarah Burton, who stood next to her mentor and best friend for 15 years, has shown the world that she is fluent in the vocabulary that was ALEXANDER McQUEEN! This was a tour de force of talent, which very few can ever achieve when having to fill the shoes of a genius. There is no coincidence that within this oeuvre there were symbols of transformation, the butterfly which is said to be a human soul in search of reincarnation and the sheaf of wheat and wheat itself which is said to be a symbol of fertility, prosperity and strength. It is all true as Ms. Burton has forever endeared herself to retailers, editors and most of all the bigwigs at PPR who will no doubt, anoint her as the “second coming.”

She chose her silhouettes carefully, eased them up ever so slightly and in some cases pushed them to the next level. The fantasy which Mr. McQueen invoked in his shows was not lost on Sarah Burton. There is no doubt that the darkness which pervaded so many of his shows in the past was banished to white, pure and virginal. It is almost an unfathomable task to have bequeathed the legacy which Mr. McQueen left and yet it is no less remarkable for Sarah Burton to have continued his DNA with such unimaginable abilities and loyalty.

Her love and respect for ALEXANDER McQUEEN is reflected in these clothes for only with those qualities has it been possible to create and prolong the brand and the man.

Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier, was a fitting end to what seemed like weeks of shows in Paris. This is, after all, the last show that Mr. Gaultier will resend for the famed brand. Nevertheless, to say he went out with a bang is an understatement. While the clothes remain utterly urbane, utterly low key and wildly expensive, the collection demonstrates how to take a trend/ theme and own it in every way. Each outfit bore the Hermes stamp, each had its own interpretation of the theme or inspiration and all of it was pure and true to the house. It is a rarity, in the world of fashion, to reinvigorate an established brand and breathe new life into it and retain the original DNA and integrity from which the house was built, but Mr. Gaultier, much to his credit, took the brand and his own particular skill set and created a fashion powerhouse for the brand which was primarily known for its accessories.

There are few words that can express the overwhelming talent of Karl Lagerfeld. This season for Chanel, he has delivered another blockbuster collection that will send the Chanel ladies into a dead faint. The palette is limited and yet there is no boredom, not a second wasted in delivering the latest message from the master. From tweeds to torn denim to plumage, the message is clearly modern and always retaining the language of Chanel. Everything is tweaked to perfection for any age, it is all there, provided of course that you can afford the luxury of such beauty. Fashion can be a cruel friend but obviously Mr. Lagerfeld has never made an enemy here at the house of Chanel.

Visit www.style.com for a more complete view of these unforgettable collections and don’t forget to look for me on Facebook or at the examiner. http://www.examiner.com/aging-style-in-new-york/jeffrey-felner and feel free to subscribe, it’s free.

Headlines This Week 9/4

• Behind the Scenes of Gossip Girl FashionIndie.com
• Proving there’s nothing the Snuggie can’t do, nowhere the Snuggie can’t go, and no fashion barrier the Snuggie can’t break, the blanket with sleeves is having its very own fashion show this Fashion Week. NYMag.com
• We could hardly contain our excitement when a Sex and the City sequel was announced, and now, our favorite fashionista is getting back to work. Sarah Jessica Parker is creating her own fashion show on the streets of Manhattan as Carrie Bradshaw. People.com

• Peeks inside of V Magazine’s Issue #61 which was released on newsstands yesterday, this spread features supermodel Naomi Campbell in Moscow, Russia. Karl Lagerfeld shoots the supermodel wearing Chanel, Dior, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana and Yves Saint Laurent, styled by Maria Chaix. Nitrolicious.com
• LADY GAGA KanyeUniverseCity.com

Headlines This Week 6/5

Photo courtesy of Nitrolicious.com

• Louis Vuitton commemorates the 40th anniversary of man’s conquest of the Moon, elevating the theme of travel as a personal journey to a celebration of a voyage of unsurpassed significance for all mankind. Nitrolicous.com
• Melissa Magsaysay of the LA Times is convinced that harem pants can be sexy – I am not. In her article, Magsaysay states, “When harem pants came down the runways at Chloé and Alexander McQueen for spring 2009, they somehow glided past the cartoony pop culture associations (Barbara Eden’s Jeannie in the ’60s, MC Hammer’s ’80s gold) to help define summer’s effortlessly slouchy look. NOT. FashionIndie.com

Photo courtesy of NYMag.com

• In a genius move, British Marie Claire put Brüno on the July cover, along with new mom (who looks amazing, might we add) and Victoria’s Secret model Alessandra Ambrosio. For the issue, Brüno, played by Sacha Baron Cohen, penned an “A–Z List of Fashion,” in which he offends as many people as he can. NYMag.com
• The German clothing factory that eventually became the international menswear powerhouse Hugo Boss manufactured Nazi uniforms during World War II and most likely did so using slave labor. LosAngelesTimes.com
• After a court case with Chanel over the use of their logo, Naco Paris won his case and not only that he has Karl Lagerfeld wearing the new Naco-Paris “Karl Who?” bag…..Not bad Naco…. Popgloss.com

Photo courtesy of Popgloss.com

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