Ten Minutes with Gail Travis of N:F:P Studio

In The September Issue, which I finally screened this weekend, the fabulous Grace Coddington puts together a spread based on texture. If only Grace had known about Gail Travis’s N:F:P Studio collection, which is all about texture. From chunky knits to gauzy tunics trimmed with the softest felted hems and necklines, N:F:P feels as good against the skin as it looks on the body. Oh, and did I mention that the pieces are meant to multitask? Whether flipping a sweater upside down to create a whole new silhouette, or buttoning pieces together to create layers, Gail designs each piece to not only work with other pieces from the current season but also to work with pieces in future seasons. Here’s more from Gail herself . . .

Oligoville: In five words or less, N:F:P Studio  is . . .

Gail: . . . designed to inspire creativity and personal comfort.

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Gail: The N:F:P ideal customer appreciates and embraces the possibilities that each garment offers. They understand the concept of sustainability through re-working and re-creating each item in their closet to form new shapes. I aim to design for women, and men, who are confident and looking for unique pieces that are not found in common mainstream outlets.  Additionally, the goal is to reach a wider customer range and encourage those who normally shop more mainstream to invest in timeless designs, ultimately hoping to promote an understanding of fashion as less disposable. The N:F:P collection is designed using snaps and signature components that will always link back to newer collections and support the concept of continuously recycling and keeping all work fresh and new.

Oligoville: How’d you end up as a designer?

Gail: I started knitting and sewing at a young age, learning from my grandmother and great-grandmother. Oddly my first sewing projects were making costumes for my dog in local parades and festivals at the age of 11—we all start somewhere! I feel that being a designer is a natural medium for me to develop and offer a creative new product, which I hope can educate mainstream audiences on the value of art and design.

As for my background, I worked for fashion houses such as Calvin Klein, Vera Wang, Shelly Steffee, and Eileen Fisher since 1999. I studied knitwear in Florence, Italy, where I also learned the felting technique. My first degree is from Cornell University—a BS in Communications—where I focused on the theory-based aspects of uniform and how and why we dress dating back to the original onset of clothing purely as function and necessity.

Oligoville: How/when did you launch your brand?

Gail: I launched the N:F:P Label in Fall 2009 after working with high-end fashion houses in NYC since 1999. The fall of 2008 I decided to pursue an opportunity to study knitwear in the Borders of Scotland and immerse myself in knitwear design.  Upon arrival in Scotland on August 26 2008, I was denied entry due to a visa issue, and immediately was pushed to re-evaluate my future goals. Instead of moving ahead as a freelance designer for other companies, I seized the opportunity of open pathways to follow, and started my own business! I know I would have eventually ended up having my own line, but that circumstance was the perfect push past the fear factor!

Oligoville: What do the initials in your company name stand for, and how does it relate to your design philosophy?

Gail: N:F:P stands for a few concepts. NEW FORM PERSPECTIVE is the idea of offering the three basic building block templates:  NIT (Sweaters); FELT (Hand Felted Chiffon & Jersey Designs); PHRAME (Basic Jersey Underpinnings).  The spelling of the words is also based on the pronunciation and phonetic construction of the words themselves. Using the three components of N:F:P, the goal is to inspire those to re-invent and re-create New Forms and Perspectives to work with each individual’s style and comfort level.  The power of three for stability and strength in encouraging to be secure with oneself, and being aware that everything is intertwined and connected in a full circle.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Gail: The collection is largely inspired by architecture: its strength and stability. Sculpture by Naum Gabo: his work in 3D and analysis of art versus science and its play with kinetic energy. These tangible art forms, mixed with dance and nature, which surround us constantly, all inspire and ultimately create the N:F:P building blocks.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in your life?

Gail: No day is ever the same. Constantly on my toes and ready to switch gears from design to business at any given moment. A day can range from e-mailing manufacturers and customers, designing, PR, sales strategizing, and shipping. The varied tasks are endless, but keep it exciting, fresh, and challenging!

Oligoville: What’s in your closet? What are you wearing right now?

Gail: You will find a sea of black, grey, and muted earth tones. Leggings, tank dresses, black boots and canvas shoes, and sweaters for layering.  Now I am wearing all black (pretty standard!): black Hooded Elastic Waist Sweater with black leggings.  For me it’s all about clean, cozy comfort all the time.

Oligoville: What’s in your bag right now?

Gail: Laptop, journal, paperwork, and, of course, my wrap neck cardigan!

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Gail: Being denied entry to Scotland was a big setback, but there are many opportunities out there once you start looking. It is very important to always ask questions and never underestimate the power of intuition and your “gut feeling.” Be willing to take risks and go against industry standards, as frightening as they may seem.  Facing the fear of uncertainty has helped guide me in directions I never knew possible. It is crucial to not focus and linger on any setback. There is always a lesson to learn. Find the positive and keep the motivation moving forward!

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your career?

Gail: The ability to interact with people and share what I love to do.

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Gail: In the next five years I hope to look back on all the pieces designed and feel confident that they all offer a unique twist and form for the consumer to play with and enjoy. My goal is to have N:F:P available in 10 boutiques across the US, targeting Takashimaya as the exclusive carrier in NYC, and hope to be available in at least one boutique in Tokyo. If not achieved in five years, that is the ongoing goal. Everything takes longer than anticipated, but the key is to let it happen naturally and not force anything that doesn’t seem right. I’m excited to see where it is in five years—we will see!!!

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Gail: Stay true to your vision. Focus on the positive, and enjoy every moment and have fun!

Oligoville: What’s on your playlist right now?

Gail: Brahms, La Boheme, Tin Hat Trio, George Brassens, Dead Can Dance, and many more.

Oligoville: Any last words?

Gail: Life is short. Follow your passions, and the doors will open. Enjoy what you do day to day—that is the goal.

Ten Minutes with Victoria Koupparis of Lavender Field

Remember those doilies your grandmother endlessly crocheted when you were a kid? Well, to borrow a popular advertising slogan–crochet’s come a long way baby. Don’t believe me? Just  check out Lavender Field, the Etsy shop of Cyprus-based crochet maven Victoria Koupparis. What I love most about Victoria’s colorful, crochet-and-glass bead necklaces is how the geometric structures seem to riff off everything from those molecular diagrams you used to have to draw in high school science class to coral branches to Italian millefiori glass. I keep imagining myself sporting one of her necklaces with my favorite sundresses this summer. Victoria is just starting to make a name for herself stateside, but I’m thinking it’s only a matter of time before her work ends up on the wish list of our favorite “It” girls. Keep reading to learn more . . .

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Victoria: I already have a few ideal customers.  We have become friends and they come back for more because they love my work and they trust that they will get something beautiful from me.

Oligoville: How’d you end up as a designer?

Victoria: I think this is something I’ve always had inside me, even though I could not afford to admit it. But there comes a time in your life when you need to show to your world what you really are capable of creating.

Oligoville: How/when did you launch your brand?

Victoria: I launched my brand about a year ago but it only developed into what it has become today about six months ago.

Oligoville: How’d you come up with the name for your company?

Victoria: I love the aroma of lavender as well as the deep purple color of some of them, but other than that the only philosophy I have is to listen to my heart and create with passion.  Do what feels right to you and people will accept you and admire you for that.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Victoria: I’d say that colors are one of my biggest inspirations.  Beautiful and neat things and places also inspire me a lot, and whenever I look at something beautiful that someone has created it just makes me want to go and create some more of my stuff!

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in your life?

Victoria: Always busy!  I thrive on being busy at all times.  I’m never ever bored. I might feel lonely at times or even exhausted, but never bored.  If I’m not creating, then I’m either cooking or tending to my house, kids, dogs, garden, restaurant, etc!

Oligoville: What’s in your closet? What are you wearing right now?

Victoria: I’m a jeans and t-shirt kind of girl.  I love being comfortable but trendy at the same time.  I’m in my pj’s right now though [because in Cyprus] it’s time to go to sleep!

Oligoville: What’s in your bag right now?

Victoria: I carry a small, trendy leather backpack with me because it’s very practical and doesn’t fall off my shoulders every time I move my arms (I have very small shoulders by the way).  In there I carry my wallet (full of cash…I wish ), chapstick and lipstick, keys, cell phone, pictures of my loved ones, tissues, the usual stuff, but not anything I don’t need.  I’m very practical that way.

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Victoria: My biggest setback has been promoting my work.  I have no experience in marketing or advertising so I find it very challenging trying to promote my work without being spammy.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your career?

Victoria: The creative part, of course.  Creating what comes from my heart, and not having to listen to a boss telling me whether it’s right or wrong!  If I feel it’s right, then it’s right!

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Victoria: I’d really like to grow my business and be successful, but for now I’m taking baby steps and see where it takes me.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Victoria: Yes, but this is advice I’d give to just anybody: Follow your heart!  You’ll never be wrong if you do!

Oligoville: Any last words?

Victoria: I’d like to give you a big THANKS for this interview.  This is a great opportunity for me to show my work to a lot of people, who will hopefully fall in love with it!

Ten Minutes with Pauline Lewis of oovoo design

Let’s face it—with all the causes in the world that can use our financial support these days, sometimes being a stylista can feel a little selfish. But thanks to Pauline Lewis of oovoo design, you can look go and do good at the same time. Hand-embroidered by a woman’s cooperative in Vietnam, the collection of shapely, East-meets-West bags supports a better quality of life for the artisans. And as the company grows, so does oovoo’s mission to support more craft cooperatives throughout southeast Asia. Read on to learn more about this fashion forward entrepreneur with a heart—and conscience—of gold.

Oligoville: In five words or less, oovoo design is. . .

Pauline: Whimsical elegance for socially-conscious fashionistas!

Oligoville: How would you describe the ideal oovoo design customer?

Pauline: A savvy, smart woman who wants to know where and how her favorite brands are made, without sacrificing her fashion sense.

Oligoville: How’d you end up a designer?

Pauline: I left the corporate world after a successful decade as a market researcher and traveled to Asia. On my first “exploratory” trip to Vietnam, I was invited to observe a women’s cooperative and, from the moment I stepped into the small little house where eight women were sitting in an embroidery circle, I knew that I wanted to work with them. I knew right then and there that I would have a company that incorporated embroidery, for women by women.  I was lucky enough to find a local Vietnamese designer to collaborate with, and we have been working together since the launch of oovoo design.  I work on the “big picture”—the size, the style, the shape, and the color palette—and my design partner works on the minute details of the motifs and embroidery work.

Oligoville: How/when did you launch your brand?

Pauline: oovoo design is now almost six years old; we launched in March 2004. It was a quiet launch, with steady growth to being in more than 250 stores & galleries by 2006.

Oligoville: Talk about how oovoo design gives back to the global community.

Pauline: The women who hand-embroider oovoo bags are paid 15% above market rate and work from home so that they can continue to look after their children. We also provide one month’s salary as a bonus and provide all-expenses paid vacations once a year. My company’s mission is to produce high quality products through the preservation of craft skills while improving the livelihood of women in Southeast Asia. Eventually, I would like to find other women’s cooperatives in Cambodia and Laos as a way for oovoo to expand into other product categories. I’d also like to create a foundation that supports student exchange programs between the United States and Southeast Asia.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Pauline: I get my business inspiration from Nell Merlino, founder of Make Mine a Million and creator of the “Take Your Daughters to Work” program. She is inspiring thousands of women-owned businesses to become better leaders. Fashion designers such as Betsey Johnson and Anna Sui are also very inspiring to me because they march to the beat of their own drum and have a very distinct style with a whimsical flair.

Oligoville:  What’s 24 hours like in your life?

Pauline: There is no typical day in the life of an entrepreneur—that’s the beauty of it! One day, I’m doing a trunk show, and the next day, I’m on a conference call with my accountant and my lawyer.

Oligoville: What’s in your closet?

Pauline: My closet is as eclectic as I am; there is not one over-arching brand or style.  I buy a lot of my clothes in Asia because there aren’t many petite options here in the States.  I’m currently wearing a Free People jacket, Lucky jeans, and Johnny Cupcake T-shirt.

Oligoville: What’s in your bag ?

Pauline: Hand sanitizer (I’m a little obsessed with NOT getting sick), a bottle of Excedrin migraine, wallet, a Ziploc bag of makeup, and some peanut-butter M&Ms.

Oligoville:  Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Pauline: Looking back, I can’t believe I managed to pull it all together. If I had a dollar for every stumbling block I encountered, I’d be set for life!  Most of the setbacks are of the “unexpected” variety.  I learned to pick myself up EVERY single time and keep moving forward, with the help of professionals, experts, and advisors.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your career?

Pauline: Being an entrepreneur is unlike anything else.  It’s the most challenging thing I have done, but it’s also equally as rewarding. There are times when it can also be isolating, scary and very, very stressful, but I’m learning to recognize those times and reach out to my network to get the help I need. In the past two months, I have also learned that being an entrepreneur can be a very personal thing: your strengths and weaknesses, successes and failures, fears and joy are all reflected in your company. I’m now working on putting processes in place to compensate for my own weaknesses so that the company is not as affected. As an entrepreneur, every day is an opportunity to learn more, give, and receive.

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Pauline: In five to ten years [oovoo design] will be the largest, most socially responsible accessories company in North America, giving back in multiple ways to countries in every continent, utilizing work with women’s cooperatives as the model for growth.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Pauline: Hire professionals to take care of things you don’t enjoy doing or aren’t good at. Create and build your business network; they will ALWAYS come through for you. If there is something you fear or are hoping to avoid, it will come back to bite you, so nip it in the bud and take care of it now.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlist right now?

Pauline: Fleet Foxes, Mos Def, Band of Horses, Girl Talk, Wolf Parade, Jenny Lewis

Oligoville: Any last words?

Pauline: Many people ask me what “oovoo” means.  “oovoo” has its roots in the word “ovo,” which is Latin for “the female egg.” The additional “o”s represent the embroidery circles that I work with.

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