FASHION BY THE RULES – Paris Review

After the past seemingly endless stream of shows in Paris and after all the drama that took place there, what is left behind is the emerging trend aftermath, which will be seen everywhere (catalogs, stores, magazines and windows at every price) starting in a scant three months for Fall 2011.

Here is a synopsis of some of the bigger trends which turned up during Paris fashion week. This is not a comprehensive list by any means, but surely some that will find their way to every level of retailer and into the closets of fashion hounds all over the world.

There was FUR everywhere and most of it was real and will no doubt be one of the most important trends of the season. HATS and GLOVES of every description were piled onto so many runways that they will be the “must” stylish accessory.

Also be on the look out for animal prints which include REPTILE and LEOPARD which turned up everywhere from Armani to Prada, from Missoni to Mugler. There was as usual, great attention paid to the 70’s and 80’s as evidenced at YSL, Ungaro, Ferragamo, Gucci and so many more. At the same time there was a return to MINIMALISM, almost severe lines, as shown at Akris, Rick Owens while the DRAPIER and softer/looser sides turned up at Haider Ackerman and Alexis Mabille. Karl Lagerfeld had declared he was tired of stiletto heels when he showed couture in January and true to his word, he showed an entire collection in either a work boot or a kitten LOW HEELED D’Orsay black pump. Chanel gave us a taste of STREET as did Givenchy, if that’s what you love and then there were the dowdy LIBRARIAN looks from Prada and Bottega Veneta , just to name a few. Lastly, there was a preponderance of WHITE, and not that vanilla creamy white, WHITE, stark white which showed up, most effectively, at YSL and at Alexander McQueen.

FASHION BY THE RULES – Gucci Pucci Coo

Well if this is any indication of what’s to come, PETA is going to be very busy this coming fall season. The latest from Ms. Giannini (GUCCI) is luxe without being dreadfully over the top and also a bit of a nod to the eternally fashionable YSL. That is to say, yes it is over the top but in a more sedate way rather than the usual bells and whistles that accompany a Gucci collection.

The keys are color, fur, leather, wearable and all with a polish and swagger that has been missing for a long time. The collection has a 40’s type of Hepburn glamor with the fuller pants, defined waists, jabot blouses, and the softer filmy evening wear. Even the shoes and handbags have been tamed, no major platforms or major stilettos nor any outrageously ridiculous bags. Don’t get me wrong, they are there just not front-and-center as in the past, after all, accessories are the bread and butter of the brand.

I really do like that so many of the daytime looks are finished off with a fedora, which also adds to that soigne city sophisticate look, as well as possibly a nod to Frida’s favorite decade (the 70’s). As I said, there is plenty of fur, whether it is collars or cuffs, detail or coat, and this part has not been tamed as the fur shows up in a kaleidoscope of colors, which only drives home that color statement more emphatically.

If one waits, one will see things happen that they never expected. Peter Dundas has now taken the style he created for the house and brand and really transformed it into a 21st century vision of Pucci. He has done this carefully and he has done it successfully with this season’s presentation.

With his rock star and over-the-top sexy take on an age old prestige brand, he has not brought back the prints which the house is famous for since its inception. Mr. Dundas has previously flirted with the prints but has not given them a starring role until now. The clothes are modern, sexy, and without question, bear the stamp of Peter Dundas. If nothing else, he has restored my faith that not all designers are solely interested in reviving a brand by defying all that the brand stood for and ignoring it. BRAVO to Peter Dundas and here’s to hoping some others will follow his lead.

FASHION BY THE RULES: SPRING 2011 MILAN – Gucci, Ferre, Prada, Etro

Gucci, Frida Giannini, has returned to her rockstar collections and has once again mined the 70’s along with several icons of the time like YSL and Guy Bourdin. The result was an extremely colorful collection with moments of neutrals and then, of course, the must have black segment. The clothes remain close to unwearable as well as being unbelievable technical feats of workmanship and construction. The theater of it was superb, and the rest is inconsequential as she does what she pleases and as long as Gucci keeps selling bags and shoes, the clothes really take a back seat when it comes to the bottom line.

Prada, Miuiccia Prada, manages to do exploit a theme even when it is the emperor’s new clothes as this collection was really not so much about the clothes as it was about the colors and the overall look. The patterns and colorations were over the top while the clothes may have approached a more wearable standard. There was great humor here to accompany the palette with those comic book colored fox stoles and the platform sneakers. Who doesn’t smile when they see monkeys???

Versace, Ms. Donatella, delivered a tough as nails collection complete with hard lines and rigid construction as well as “hard geometry.” The clothes seem to be simple but are complicated by the cut outs and the awkward straps, not to mention, the hideously cheap looking prints. There were moments of brief respite with a few peeks into what she is really capable of doing before all the junk gets in the way. This certainly was not a stellar moment for the house of Versace.

Gianfranco Ferre, the Aquilano and Rimondi boys, needs a serious recalibration to get straightened out. Save for a few passages, the clothes remain graceless and reminiscent rather than cutting edge, slick and sophisticated. Where are the tailored components, the precision, the drama and the grand gestures that the namesake made a house staple. These guys need to really examine their ”M.O.” or the new owners will be showing them the door very soon.

Etro is one of those brands which has carved an identity for itself and stuck to its DNA season after season. Here, it is never boring and before you enter you already know that you will witness a full tilt visual assault on your senses. The prints, the mash ups, the silhouettes are all part of the glory of Etro and this season there is a far more approachable outlook. There seems to be just a bit of holding back which has certainly worked to their advantage and certainly plays to the DNA of the brand.

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