FASHION BY THE RULES – YSL, L’AMOUR FOU

It is no wonder that New York City was one of the two locations to have premiered the film L’Amour Fou. Besides being counted amongst the four fashion capitals of the world, this was a favorite destination of a younger Yves St Laurent. It was here in the 70’s that he launched Opium and here where he famously laughed and smoked at Studio 54 with his friend Nan Kempner. This was also the city where he opened one of his first ready to wear boutiques in the 70’s, Rive Gauche on Madison Avenue at 53 Street. In later years this was the city where they maintained a residence at The Pierre on Fifth Avenue.

The movie is a poignant view of St. Laurent and his lover, business partner, and protector Pierre Berge. The film is a very personal glimpse into their lives and does not focus on the commercial side of this famous pair but on their personal relationships which also happen to include a monumental , magnificent private collection of masterpieces, whether it be furniture, paintings, sculpture, bibelots, or objets d’art. They were “hoarders” in the most exquisite sense and not the ones we see portrayed on reality TV.

Anyone who proclaims to have a love of fashion, an appreciation of the fine arts or any acumen in business must indulge themselves by spending about 100 minutes of their life and watch the ascension and then the denouement of this famed pairing through the life that tortured one, due to his own genius, and the other who spent a lifetime building the empire that was known as YSL and then his own personal accomplishments away from the troubled designer.

One might almost look at it as a cautionary tale of success in the fashion business as well as a certain case of be very careful what you wish for.

FASHION BY THE RULES – It’s Complicated

Just as there is Haute Couture and Haute Joallier, there is also Haute Horlogerie. For those who are unfamiliar with the term, we are talking “timepieces,” not watches, TIMEPIECES!!! What you really need to know is that we are talking complications here, not just in design but in the most technical way. Imagine a timepiece that requires a movement, which is assembled and completed by hand for over 700 man hours. (Girard Perregaux)

For the very first time ever in New York City, the “Timecrafters” had come to town. The show was billed as “New York’s first luxury watchmaking fair” and what makes this show extraordinarily special is that it was open to the public. If you are a collector of fine timepieces, have an interest in why a timepiece has value or purely a sucker for beauty, this should be your destination next go around.

Brands, such as Cartier, Bulgari, Harry Winston, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Girard Perregaux and 13 more outstanding producers of the most expensive timepieces in the world are displaying examples of what makes them the cream of the crop, the elite of horology. There is also an exhibit that traces the history of “mechanical horology from its origins to present day.

The “fair” is loosely based on the Basel fair, which is in Switzerland and occurs each spring and draws tens of thousands of visitors each year from all over the world. The feeling being, that if this show proves to be well attended, then we can expect a greatly expanded roster of “makers” for the next fair.

FASHION BY THE RULES – Alexander McQueen – Savage Beauty

From the very start of this book, you might think that this is another of those over the top, overly thought out and over intellectualized odes to a designer. The facts are very simple, this is as good as it gets when it comes to any book about a designer.
The author gives us his take on the wildly talented Alexander McQueen, which is as I have said, a bit too scholarly and pretentious for my liking but all is forgiven as the book becomes a visual monument to the talents of a designer who left us while still in his prime. The biggest assets of this magnificently photographed volume are the actual words of Mr. McQueen and an enlightening interview with Sarah Burton who succeeded him after his untimely demise.

“I think that couture has complete relevance today. Designer fashion shouldn’t be throwaway.”

“I think of myself as a plastic surgeon with a knife.”

“You’ve got to know the rules before you can break them. That’s why I am here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition.”

There are so many inspiring and insightful quotes that define this master of 21st century design as well as little known facts about his past which are revealed in an almost fairy tale magic method of the telling of Mr. McQueen’s past of beginnings. This is a story that will inform, enlighten, entertain and leave you amazed from the spectacular photos which remind us of what we will miss in years to come.

The book which was published this month so that it releases the same time as the exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.

Rarely does any written/visual work leave you saddened by knowing that the artist reduced his own genius to just a scant 2 decades. What a loss for all of us who remain.

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