Ten Minutes with Courtney & Christina of White Owl

Lace can be many things: sweet, girly, naughty, and—surprisingly—sculptural. Well, at least it is in the hands of sisters Courtney & Christina Spivak who sell jewelry made from reclaimed lace, chain, and tulle under the White Owl by Spivak and Spivak brand. Take a look at the Clementine earrings, which echo the notched fluting of gingko leaves, or the Rennes necklace, two paisley-ish lace fragments strung on a cascade of coppery chain. The collection is the perfect balance of substance with lightness, and each piece will work just as well framing a tanned clavicle, or adding just enough “girl”  to that perfect tank you keep borrowing from your boyfriend.  Here’s more from Courtney & Christina . . .

Oligoville: Fill in the blanks: In five words or less, White Owl is . . .

Courtney & Christina: . . .  reclaimed, vintage, tulle, chain, lace

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Courtney & Christina: Our ideal customer is someone who enjoys our product! We try to make everyone’s experience as good as possible, so hopefully everyone becomes our ideal customer!

Oligoville: How’d you end up as designers?

Courtney & Christina: We’ve both made jewelry for ourselves on and off over the years, but only started selling online last year.

Oligoville: How/when did you launch your brand?

Courtney & Christina: We started in craft shows a couple of years ago and started our Etsy shop in 2008, but we didn’t really get the Etsy shop going until April 2009.

Oligoville: Why lace?

Courtney & Christina: We work with different materials that we find inspiring, but the intricate patterns of lace are always intriguing to us.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Courtney & Christina: Thrift shops, street fashion, old movies—everything really.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in each of your lives?

Courtney: Wake up, work (I teach at a local college), come home, grab a drink with friends, and make jewelry!

Christina: Answer emails, process orders, go the post office, then swing by the thrift shop or flea market, then maybe some time with friends and back to making jewelry.

Oligoville: What’s in your closets? What are you wearing right now?

Courtney: Tulle ! For Spring 2010 I have bought tons of tulle skirts and tulle embellished tops! I have also been using tons of tulle in the new necklaces I have been making.

Christina: Lots of neutrals, and of course lace!

Oligoville: What’s in your bags right now?

Courtney: Makeup, money, my new Droid cellphone, granola bar (for snack emergencies!)

Christina: Pretty much everything but the kitchen sink!

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Courtney & Christina: It’s hard to keep a balance between work and play when you run your own business, but time off is important. We try to enjoy our time off so we can be inspired and still excited about what we do.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your careers?

Courtney & Christina: Making things! Being creative is its own reward.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Courtney & Christina: Work, work, work! Having your own business means lots of work.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlists right now?

Courtney & Christina: David Bowie, MGMT, Deerhoof, France Gall

Oligoville: Any last words?

Courtney & Christina: Au revoir?

Ten Minutes with Edna and Cindy of The Hemma Collection

Let’s face it—it’s hard to keep traditionally-infused looks from feeling costumey. I mean an obi’s still an obi whether you’re styling an antique kimono or an off-the-runway  tunic, right? Thank goodness no one told  that to Edna Bissoon and Cindy Gaston of The Hemma Collection. Not that it would have mattered because the designing duo has done the seemingly impossible—created an utterly wearable, drop dead sexy, of-the-moment collection that perfectly balances bodycon silhouettes with kente‘s exuberant patterning. (And did I mention that there’s also a healthy dose of philanthrophy thrown in?) But why don’t I let Edna and Cindy tell you more about it?

Oligoville: In five words or less, The Hemma Collection is. . .

Edna & Cindy:  . . .  a stunning collection embodying edgy sophistication.

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Edna & Cindy: Hemma’s ideal customers are women craving chic, innovative, timeless garments that can be integrated into their current wardrobe. The Hemma woman looks beyond function when selecting clothes and loves to make a statement—what kind of statement is up to the client. Every style in the collection has strikingly detailed kente with each color and pattern having its own meaning deeply rooted in the royal tradition of Ghana. We have pieces offered both in rich and monotone colors catering to women with a rich color palette or those wanting a more subtle look. Our immaculately tailored suits, cocktail dresses, and separates focus on detail down to the creamy silk lining and the silhouettes designed to accentuate a woman’s curves and make each client feel like royalty. With proceeds going toward the school where we taught, Hemma’s ideal customer appreciates fashion with a cause.

Oligoville: How’d you end up as designers?

Edna: I’ve been interested in fashion since I could remember, and it all started with my mom. She is an artist in her own right and not only did she do all of our interior decorating but made some of my clothes and Halloween costumes. Art has always been in my blood and, from a young age, I participated in art programs and learned how to sew. I took classes at [the Fashion Institute of Technology], modeled at dozens of fashion shows, and independently designed for four years.

Cindy: I’ve drawn to designing my own pieces since the swing lesson in my eighth grade home economics class in middle school. Afterward, I grabbed my mother’s sewing machine and have been designing my own garments ever since then! I studied the history of kente at New York University in Ghana and even wove kente myself, designed several products for HBO’s original series Flight of the Conchords, and independently designed for approximately five years.

Edna & Cindy: Since we both come from a fashion design background, creating garments came about immediately and naturally when we arrived in Ghana. Initially, we were not aiming to create a lifestyle brand, but rather pieces for ourselves. We learned about kente’s rich history and became accustomed to the fabric through art history classes offered in Ghana, excursions around the country, and the students we taught while volunteering at La Yahoushua Junior Secondary School.

When wearing our designs in New York City, we received such wide acclaim that we moved to introduce our garments to the general public. Many people we encountered did not know about Kente and were immediately attracted to the styles and the intricately detailed fabric. Hemma began from the desire to introduce to the world a gem of a textile and our desire to offer luxe immaculately tailored garments that accentuates a woman’s curves to make every client feel like royalty.

Oligoville: Why kente?

Edna & Cindy: Going to Bonwire, the main town where Kente is woven in Ghana, and seeing the skilled artisans creating such intricate patterns all by eye inspired us. Kente is not only Hemma’s fabric of choice but it’s a piece of art to be admired. There is an unimaginable amount of creative energy, determination, and history woven into Kente that was apparent to us as soon as we saw and learned about it. Kente is alive and tells a long beautiful story of the past while pointing to valuable insights to be incorporated into the future.

All of the Kente used by Hemma is authentically created with the same techniques established centuries ago, including the weaving still done on handmade wooden looms. The Kente weaving system is an astonishing process as all lines, shapes, and pattens are so perfectly formed by the technician without measuring tools. What is special about these craftsmen is that they inherit the right, as only a particular group of families in Ghana master and pass down this complex skill. Kente is not only one of the most exceptional fabrics in Africa but also the world.

The fabric is so intricate that it takes approximately 1-2 months to weave enough fabric for a size zero suit in the collection. Kente also boasts a 100% eco-friendly reputation as it uses natural dyes, no machinery or factories in its production, and is made from virgin cotton. Hemma strives to bring Kente to the public and make all of our clients feel just as luxurious.

Oligoville: Please talk about the philanthropic aspect of your company.

Edna & Cindy: The Hemma Foundation is our way of giving back to the people and culture that inspired Hemma’s very creation. We both volunteered as teachers and photography club advisors at La Yahoushua Junior Secondary School in Accra, Ghana. We witnessed the economic hardships faced by young children in Ghana, many of whom work long hours to assist their families. In Ghana, West Africa an estimated 40% of all elementary aged children lack the resources to attend school. The enrollment rates drop even further for secondary aged children, as an alarming 60% of them are unable to afford a basic education. Numerous primary and secondary schools also lack basic resources such as bathrooms and up-to-date learning materials.

To address this issue, we created The Hemma Foundation, a not-for-profit organization that affords educational opportunities for economically disadvantaged primary and secondary school students in Ghana by providing academic scholarships. The foundation also aims to improve the quality of education by granting financial assistance to under-funded primary and secondary schools. By donating funds for learning materials and after school programs, The Hemma Foundation strives to improve the quality of education received by Ghana’s youth. The Hemma Foundation allows the public to directly donate to under-funded schools in Ghana, beginning with La Yahoushua, the middle school where we taught classes. We will continue to guide the foundation’s growth and support its efforts by way of an ongoing investment of five percent of Hemma’s annual sales.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Edna & Cindy: We draw our inspiration from many places including Diane von Furstenberg and Chanel. DVF’s wrap dresses in particular flatter a women’s shape and have appealed to women since the 1970s. Chanel creates tailored suits that can be collected and worn throughout seasons. As with these brands, we envision Hemma’s garments will withstand seasons and trends. Similarly, our collection flatters and accentuates a woman’s silhouette, allowing women to feel confident about their bodies. The sleek silhouettes and chic designs can be worn from day to night and integrated easily into a woman’s wardrobe. By maintaining the same weaving techniques used to dress the royal class for centuries, Hemma offers one-of-a-kind pieces that allow each client to exude royalty.

We were both inspired by the students we taught while living in Ghana. By spending time with our students while instructing classes and advising the after-school Photography Club, we learned a great deal about the culture and fell in love with Ghana. We were so inspired that we began The  Hemma Foundation to continue assisting the educational system in Ghana while designing for Hemma.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in your lives?

Edna & Cindy: Early morning conference call with our operations team in Ghana, answering emails in the morning, heading to the factory to manage production or visiting the boutiques where we are carried to plan trunk shows/manage new orders/ensure client satisfaction. We also hold Hemma meetings in the evening to prep for upcoming events and coordinate marketing, attend NYC fashion or art related events to take in the rich art culture that NYC has to offer.

Oligoville: What’s in your closets? What are you wearing right now?

Edna : Hemma Gold Coast corset in blue and white, Rag and Bone slacks, and oxford shoes.

Cindy – A Walter dress, Hemma Asante Jacket in black, and DVF heels.

Oligoville: What’s in your bags right now?

Edna: My laptop, the Hemma catalog, my iPhone, Lucky magazine’s May issue that highlights The Hemma Foundation, a planner, and Biosilk’s Silk Therapy.

Cindy: My blackberry, Essence magazine’s April Issue that features Hemma in the editorial spread and our “Stylist Notebook” article, a bottle of Vitamin E oil, a planner, and a pair of flats.

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Edna & Cindy: One of the biggest obstacles we had to overcome when launching Hemma was finding proper investment. Finding the right relationship is crucial when building a brand and maintaining the vision intended for the company. Proper research, a strong business plan, and a well-ironed vision is also needed when securing investment. Thus far each step of the way has progressed smoothly due to the strong management behind the company and simply because of the undeniable beauty, quality, and appeal of Hemma.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your careers?

Edna & Cindy: Being able to pursue our passion while giving back to our students in West Africa.

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Edna & Cindy: Hemma’s future is very bright. This is just our first collection, and our future collections will continue to evolve and improve. Characteristics of Hemma that will remain constant are the luxe quality of fabric and construction, beauty in pattern and color, and a fit that will make women feel confident about their curves. In the next five years we would like to be in boutiques across the country and around the world, as well as have expanded to our men’s collection. We also envision having a flagship store in that time.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Edna & Cindy: Our greatest advice is to be passionate about what you do and then have the discipline and work ethic to follow through! Having your own company is a lot of work but also endlessly rewarding. Also, there is way more preparation involved in every step of the way than you first imagine, and it’s true what they say preparation is everything.  Do as much research as humanly possible on anything that you want to get into because to succeed you have to be an expert on your business. Finally, it’s critical that you always stay optimistic and hopeful.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlists right now?

Edna: Drake, Sade, Robin Thicke

Cindy: MGMT, Birdman, Adele, Kate Nash

Oligoville: Any last words?

Edna & Cindy: We at Hemma focus on quality, detail and fit and make only very small quantities to ensure a unique piece that exudes luxury. Our 2010 collection is a limited edition and there will only be 300 total garments created with the specific colors, patterns and styles offered. We also create custom garments upon request. We give our clients the option of choosing any kente present in the current collection for the style in the collection of their choice to create their own custom Hemma garment.

Ten Minutes with Michelle Chang of Michelle Chang Jewelry

Simple doesn’t have to mean dull. Especially when the simple bauble you’re sporting is from the Michelle Chang Jewelry line. From a cool cartoony elephant with sparkly eyes to a pair of blue-eyed sidewinders to a graffiti-ish puffy heart, Michelle’s jewelry speaks softly but still makes quite a statement. Turns out size doesn’t really matter after all–at least not when it comes to style. Hear more from Michelle below.

Oligoville:  In five words or less, Michelle Chang Jewelry is. . .

Michelle: Organic or geometric, and current.

Oligoville: How would you describe your ideal customer?

Michelle: There isn’t one.  Since I’ve been in business, I’ve had everyone from college students in LA to Midwest housewives buy my jewelry.  I think the jewelry is simple yet current and not overly trendy which appeals to a broader customer base.

Oligoville: How’d you end up as a designer?

Michelle: I was very artistic as a child so it was inevitable that I went to college as a fine art major, but I graduated with a degree in design.  Since college, I’ve always worked in creative fields: architecture and interior design, illustration, and now jewelry.

Oligoville: How/when did you launch your brand?

Michelle: I officially launched my line about 2+ years ago when I decided to transition from illustration to jewelry.

Oligoville: What fashion trends do you hope have staying power? Which do you hope are on their way out?

Michelle: I think that even if something is trendy, if the quality is there and it’s not overly done, it can be worn for a long time.  Currently many accessories seem to be bigger than ever, and some that are too over the top and simply impractical to wear will not be around very long. In other words, the oversized trend will get to a saturation point very soon.

Oligoville: Who and/or what inspires you?

Michelle: It can be anything or anyone. I see things on a daily basis that are inspiring to me—a painting, a design on a belt buckle, flowers on a tree, or even subway rails.  As for who—other designers and artists whose work I admire as well as friends with impeccable taste.

Oligoville: What’s 24 hours like in your life?

Michelle: I wake up, and after a bite to eat and walking my dog, I get on the computer to answer customers’ queries, and perhaps to put up new listings and organize my orders. Then I take a break to play squash or tennis. Afterward, I work the rest of the day even into the evening if my energy allows or if deadline is pressing.  A few days a week, I go to the jewelry district in NYC to get my castings done and to get supplies.

Oligoville: What’s in your closet? What are you wearing right now?

Michelle: I have tennis and squash racquets, clothes, painting supplies, and tons of shoes. I love boots in particular.  Now I’m wearing my staple outfit:  boots, T-shirt, and jeans.

Oligoville: What’s in your bag right now?

Michelle: Right now my bag is full of jewelry supplies, molds, and castings—I just got back from the jewelry district—and a few copies of Time Out New York and New York magazines so I can see what’s happening in NYC and to keep up with the trends.

Oligoville: Tell us about some unexpected setbacks you have faced since starting your business and what you learned.

Michelle: Like most businesses, there are many ups and downs.  Sales are either too slow or too fast.  When its slow, I worry.  When its too fast, I’m a bit panicked.  But I’ve gotten used to managing my time more wisely, which is key when you have your own business.

Oligoville: What has been the most rewarding part of your career?

Mchelle: Definitely what I find most rewarding is the creativity and the independence.  I make what I like and if people like what I make, they buy it.  I love offering a product that I’ve made with my own two hands. It’s the greatest feeling to be able to make a living from doing just that.

Oligoville: Tell us where you expect to see your business in the next five years.

Michelle: I hope to employ a small group of people to help with production and the business side so I’ll have more time for designing and expanding my line.

Oligoville: Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs?

Michelle: Before launching your business make sure you have enough products and inventory and that you have a handle on the running of your business.  You don’t have to quit your day job, but be prepared to work very hard.  I’m sure everyone’s heard this a billion times but it’s true: you need to spend money to make money and believe in yourself.

Oligoville: What’s on your playlist right now?

Michelle: Some of my favorite music:  The National,  Beck, Bach, Decemberists, Shearwater, Mazzy Star

Oligoville: Any last words?

Michelle: I’ve been lucky enough in my life to have always loved my work.  Work should not just be work.  It should be your passion.

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