FASHION BY THE RULES: MILAN FALL 2010

Keeping on trend for the season, Milan designers turned toward their individual histories in order to move into the future. It was a sort of homecoming for most. Rather than try to examine each of the collections, I thought it would be best to single out the few who really did it best.

CAVALLI and BLUMARINE stuck to their mantras of more are better and delivered eye popping collections that included every conceivable animal pattern and then some. The key here is that they are keeping their ladies happy, giving them what they want and hopefully even gaining a few new fans for the season.

ARMANI and MOSCHINO did what they did best. Mr. Armani used his tailoring expertise to deliver a collection that his stalwart clients will want and Moschino mined back to the days when Franco was alive and made this season a paean to his memory. There were no tricks in these collections, just salable wearable clothes.

GUCCI and PUCCI seemed to be on their way toward garnering new audiences for these two hall of fame names. Gucci returned to the concept of wearable clothes, well certainly more wearable than they have been in recent years. Pucci has continued to reinvent itself as the hot girl line with clothes that scream sexy and in your face looks.

MISSONI and DOLCE&GABBANA returned to their respective heritage with collections that featured the recognizable patterns and colorations of the past (Missoni) and then with an in your face presentation of sartorial wonders that forced you to remember the roots of Dolce&Gabbana.

While there was not a lot of stepping out on a limb during the showings, there were palpable trends that continued to shop up in almost every collection. Fur was plentiful, suits and more pantsuits than usual, the toning down of flash, a renewed focus on wearable and I think fashion that would be akin to comfort food.

Please remember to find comprehensive coverage of all the shows at http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com/ and for more photos at style.com

FASHION BY THE RULES: NY FALL II

With 7 days of countless shows, I thought that I would sort of narrow it down and give you a sampling of what went on during the week. This week I will cover Victoria Beckham, Carolina Herrera, Narciso Rodriguez, Rodarte and Zac Posen. Sort of a good, the bad and the ugly.
VICTORIA BECKHAM delivered a small and well edited collection of her very body conscious dresses. Using herself as muse, these dresses are only for those with positive body images as they are very unforgiving. Nonetheless, the dresses offer a very chic and slick look without all the ruffles of flourishes that have been offered up all week by so many designers.
CAROLINA HERRERA went back to her roots as a designer who catered to the ladies. She certainly showed an extremely polished and raffine collection that owes deeply to Bill Blass and his “dames.” It epitomizes the ladies who lunch as well as ladies who have access to large bank accounts and use them toward their own pleasure.
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ added just a little bit of curve to his normally razor sharp straight lines. The result is a slight softening of shapes. I found it least effective in the silk dresses. I wish he had chosen alternate shoes as I found them to be distracting and heavy which took away from the clothes.
RODARTE has always intrigued me since I am unable to fathom how these clothes can be reproduced but this time around I find myself asking “are these the emperor’s new clothes?” After digesting the astronomical prices, one must ask: where do you wear these clothes and why would you wear these clothes????
ZAC POSEN poses no question of how these clothes are reproduced, it just poses the question of why would any store buy these clothes?? Who is the customer and what is the point?

For more comprehensive coverage please don’t forget to read me at http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com/ and don’t forget to check out the collections in their totality at style.com

FASHION BY THE RULES: The Opening Act

FASHION BY THE RULES: THE OPENING ACT

For Fall 2010, the opening of fashion week began with a smash thanks to Chado by Ralph Rucci. For this week I will refrain from my usual trend like column to give a rave to one of the last artists of the fashion business. Given the untimely passing of Alexander McQueen, I felt that I should pay homage to another designer who defies the business, and instead focuses on constructing extraordinary art.

One must always take into account the vision involved in designing the line and then making that sketch into reality. Two cases in point are Mr. Rucci and the late Mr. McQueen.

Mr. Rucci has consistently delivered the highest standards possible with his collections.  He is the architect and the historian who creates these deceptively simple garments. There is such genius and technical savvy involved that it is hard to be believe that these clothes could be sold off the rack rather than at the couture level.

Mr. Rucci offers up the restraint that only a fine artist can attain with his or her craft. His clothes are for the infinitely tasteful, not to mention rich, ladies who are devotees to these works of art, consider them the 21st century patrons like the Medici’s.

Mr. Rucci will never be accused of starting a trend but he will always be considered a consummate designer/ artist who never forgets that fashion is an art, not just a trade.

If you are a student of fashion, whether it is in school or as a hobby, these clothes must never be overlooked as they set the bar impossibly high for fashion designers the world over.

Please make sure you view the collection at style.com and don’t forget to stay tuned into NY fashion week Fall 2010 at http://jeffybruce.blogspot.com/

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