FASHION BY THE RULES – Spring 2012 The Row – the Olsen’s

Well, the fashion train has started its journey for Spring 2012. The first stop is New York City, primarily at Lincoln Center. So if you are wondering why there are no hotel rooms or dinner reservations, or taxis, consider yourself informed. Fashion is in town!

See what will be filling your favorite shopping emporia; be it Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, Bloomingdales, Saks Fifth Avenue or Fifth Avenue or Madison Avenue.

There is some sort of odd feeling attached to saying that this collection by the Olson twins is quite wonderful. Being of that age when the twins were the most saccharine of TV stars and then cashing in at Wal-Mart, I am a bit ambivalent about saying that the collection, The Row, is quite beautiful, sophisticated and refined.

One can only say that these 2 have set their minds to casting a wider net to capture an adult audience based on their vision rather than the vision of them. In a way, I have a problem admitting that these freshmen designers offer one of the most original looking collections. Yes, the overall look is somewhat derivative, but then again what isn’t? What sets them apart are the flourishes they use, like the mini ruffles, the diminished color palette and staying within the vision of their collection. It is very much them!

My take on this is very simple – they get it! They have built a customer base and they stick to giving them what they want and not the whims of the season. Difficult as it is for me to say, BRAVO!

FASHION BY THE RULES – The Next Generation of Haute Couture

Three designers who seem to share a common design ethic which is simple shapes, 2 of the 3 seem to think less is more and the third has decided to embellish his basic shapes. The haute couture is known for embellishment and decoration and the extremes of designing where cost is never considered. Why have they chosen to show during the haute couture and not the ready to wear schedule? Is this the future of the haute couture?

Bouchra Jarrar opts for the slickest and cleanest of silhouettes and is embellishment free except or the graphic touches. The clothes look razor sharp and basically ageless except I would love to know who will pay “couture prices” for these looks. Personally, I do like them for all of the above reasons but I hardly think they are couture worthy.

Anne Valerie Hash shows around 15 pieces and once again I am compelled to ask why and yet I know she has a following but I would just love to be able to ask these women. Why? The clothes are definitely discreet and unassuming yet there is a bit of a more “artsy” take with the draping but what’s the purpose of wearing or buying these frocks?

Lastly is the very puzzling Maxime Simoens who has a decidedly graphic approach for his collection. Graphic in the geometric sense and yet the clothes seem almost boring even with the symmetrical geometry that he employs. Once again, I am forced to ask myself, why? What possesses this young man to present a made to measure collection that is so non-descript and certainly not earth-shattering.

Could it be that I am ignorant enough to think that there are no customers for these collections or is it sheer hubris to show during the Haute Couture?
Comments are welcome, enlighten me, agree or disagree with me .

FASHION BY THE RULES – YSL, L’AMOUR FOU

It is no wonder that New York City was one of the two locations to have premiered the film L’Amour Fou. Besides being counted amongst the four fashion capitals of the world, this was a favorite destination of a younger Yves St Laurent. It was here in the 70’s that he launched Opium and here where he famously laughed and smoked at Studio 54 with his friend Nan Kempner. This was also the city where he opened one of his first ready to wear boutiques in the 70’s, Rive Gauche on Madison Avenue at 53 Street. In later years this was the city where they maintained a residence at The Pierre on Fifth Avenue.

The movie is a poignant view of St. Laurent and his lover, business partner, and protector Pierre Berge. The film is a very personal glimpse into their lives and does not focus on the commercial side of this famous pair but on their personal relationships which also happen to include a monumental , magnificent private collection of masterpieces, whether it be furniture, paintings, sculpture, bibelots, or objets d’art. They were “hoarders” in the most exquisite sense and not the ones we see portrayed on reality TV.

Anyone who proclaims to have a love of fashion, an appreciation of the fine arts or any acumen in business must indulge themselves by spending about 100 minutes of their life and watch the ascension and then the denouement of this famed pairing through the life that tortured one, due to his own genius, and the other who spent a lifetime building the empire that was known as YSL and then his own personal accomplishments away from the troubled designer.

One might almost look at it as a cautionary tale of success in the fashion business as well as a certain case of be very careful what you wish for.

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